It's been two weeks since my last post. That's unacceptable. Naturally, I deflect any blame for this, and instead ask why you, my loyal audience, hasn't deluged me with demands for more posting. Specifically, I blame Mike.
I have two posts in the works, but unfortunately neither is ready yet. To whet your apetite, here are a couple of teasers:
One features a European import that I only recently became aware of, although my friends who fly Delta have long been in the know (and yes, my ego is still recovering from my long ignorance).
The second features Billy Zane- enough said.
In the meantime, I have two things to offer you. First, I baked this mean looking challah last week:
Second, I had the best Ethiopian food I've ever had last week at Zenebech Injera.
It's on the corner of T St NW and Florida, has half a dozen tables, and when I asked the owner for help ordering, he suggested we try a dish with raw beef!
When I told him I couldn't sell raw beef to the other people in my party, he gave us some to try anyway. It wasn't bad, but a couple of the other dishes we tried were incredible.
You should go check it out.
My parents were in town this weekend, so I stocked up on ice cream. I made four flavors: Coffee-Cinnamon, Pina Colada, Strawberry (sorbet), and Ginger (a new flavor!) My parents are huge ginger fans, so this was for them, and featured chopped, candied ginger from Trader Joe's.
But unfortunately, it's now the work week, and like the hangover from a big night out, my freezer now presents a serious danger: How do I avoid eating the remains of four quarts of ice cream over the next couple of days?
Generally speaking, my first line of defense against junk food binging* is 'Don't buy it'. This works well for me, since I do the food shopping, and I know that if I have anything like a sleeve of Oreos in the house, it won't last the night. But the 'Dont buy it' defense doesn't really work for homemade ice cream. 'Dont make it'? I guess, but while I do take breaks for short periods, that's not a good long-term strategy.Dan Ariely
has a suggestion. Ariely is a behavioral economist at Duke, and author of a couple of books (check out his Amazon page
). He wrote a guest post on Tim Ferriss' blog on something called 'ego depletion'.
(I'll take a shot here at describing the concept, but you're much better off just reading the article. Really.. go read it
). Ego depletion is the idea that you start each day with a bank account of decision 'points'. As you make decisions, both large and small, that bank accounts is reduced. Deciding between the red shirt and blue shirt to wear to work may cost only 1 point. Deciding not to skip the gym after work might be 20 points. And so forth. After the day's account is empty, your ability to make decisions is significantly impaired. And so when you get home to make dinner, and you see four quarts of ice cream in the freezer, the question of 'Should I make dinner or just eat a lot of ice cream?' is more likely to be answered in favor of the ice cream.
(Seriously, read the article, Ariely does a much better job than I did. Click here for the article
I found this idea fascinating, because it helps us understand how we make decisions (consciously or not), and can provide some insight into how to avoid devouring a quart of chocolate hazelnut ice cream (or whatever your weakness is) while sitting on the couch watching basketball (I would call out Kirby here, but he knows that I've done the same thing). And I would add that there's nothing wrong with the occasional binge, but being aware of why you do this is better than being unaware.
As Ariely says in the article,
The key here is planning the indulgence rather than waiting until you have absolutely nothing left in the tank. It’s in the latter moments of desperation that you throw yourself on the couch with the whole pint of ice cream, not even making a pretense of portion control, and go to town while watching your favorite tv show.
To be clear: eating the whole pint of ice cream, in and of itself, isn't the root problem; rather, it's the eating of it because you've used up your decision points and don't have the willpower left to resist the ice cream and make dinner. This is exactly why a good article on getting in shape suggests planning all your meals in advance, prepping everything on Sunday, and packaging the meals for the week in tupperware.
If you're interested in more on this, Brian Wansink (a professor at Cornell's Food Lab .. how cool a place is that) wrote Mindless Eating
, which goes into much greater depth, with a focus on food (for example, why do we sit at a movie theater, mindlessly shoving handfuls of stale, over-buttered popcorn into our pie holes).
The bottom line here is not that you should stop eating junk food. You're not going to. But for those of us, like me, who have serious control problems around food, it can only be helpful to understand better how and why we behave as we do.
And now, with the public service announcement out of the way, here's an ice cream recipe.Ginger Ice Cream
, adapted from The Perfect Scoop by David Lebovitz
- 3 ounces peeled fresh ginger
- 1 cup whole milk
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 3/4 cups sugar
- pinch of salt
- 5 large egg yolks
- Cut the ginger into thin slices. Add the sliced ginger to a small pot, cover with water and bring to a boil.
- Let it cook for two minutes, then drain the ginger (this is called 'blanching').
- Add the milk, 1 cup of the cream, the sugar, and the salt, and heat until the mixture is warm. Cover the saucepan, remove it from the heat, and let the ginger steep for an hour.
- Remove the ginger from the milk mixture (you can eat it, it's pretty good), and make a custard with the milk mixture and the egg yolks.
- Put the remaining 1 cup of cream in a medium bowl, and pour the custard into that bowl and mix. From there, follow the usual steps (chill and churn, etc).
- You can add chopped candied ginger, but we had trouble chopped it into really small pieces, and I didn't think it froze that well.
* To me, there's a huge difference between binging on junk food and binging on healthy food. If you decide to eat a quart of cottage cheese, two cups of oatmeal, and a bowl of apples over three hours, you'll be really full, but long-term, you'll be in better shape and in less danger from things like diabetes**.
** This touches on capital N "Nutrition". I'm happy to get into a big discussion on this, but I'm not sure an ice cream blog is the place for it. If you have questions, let me know.
I've mentioned it several times, so here it is. The microwave caramel technique.
I got it from America's Test Kitchen. I found The Feed
*, which has a bunch of one-minute tips, for things like making caramel and stretching pizza dough.
For those unfamiliar, America's Test Kitchen
a real 2,500 square foot test kitchen located just outside of Boston that is home to more than three dozen full-time cooks and product testers. Our mission is simple: to develop the absolute best recipes for all of your favorite foods. To do this, we test each recipe 30, 40, sometimes as many as 70 times, until we arrive at the combination of ingredients, technique, temperature, cooking time, and equipment that yields the best, most-foolproof recipe.
Back to the caramel. You'll need:
Can we stop for a second and wonder why anyone writes a recipe that uses 1/8th of a tsp? I don't think anyone has a 1/8 tsp measuring spoon. Once I get the hang of this, I'll just double the recipe. Although I guess I could weigh 1/4 tsp of lemon juice on my scale, and then used the scale to determine half? That seems like too much work.
- 1 C sugar
- 2 TBL water
- 2 TBL corn syrup
- 1/8 tsp lemon juice
Combine everything in a bowl, and microwave 5 to 8 minutes, until it's a tan color.The video says the range is because different microwaves have different strengths. I let mine go for five minutes, and then decided it wasn't tan enough, and let it go another minute. That, as you'll see, was a mistake.
Let it cool.
Obviously, be careful removing the bowl from the microwave. It'll be REALLY hot, and melted sugar burns, and doesn't come off your skin easily. Here are some safety tips
from the master, David Lebovitz:
- * Caramel is very, very hot. And very sticky. Keep a deep bowl of water with lots of ice in it nearby if you’re a newbie: if some caramel lands on your hand, plunge it right into the ice water immediately. And wear an oven mitt just to be sure when handling hot pots.
- * Wear oven mitts and a long sleeve shirt. Caramel is hot and can splatter, especially when adding other ingredients to is
- * Use a sturdy large pot or pan that won’t overflow
- * Keep a deep bowl of icy water nearby to plunge your hand in if caramelized sugar lands on it
- * If you have glasses, wear them
I took pictures at a couple different points:
Ready for the microwave
After five minutes
Uh oh.. that doesn't look like their's. Letting it cool didn't fix the problem.
And.. it's burnt. To the trash. Do you see the sacrifices I make for you people? Luckily, this is so easy, I can make it again.
Before I do, a couple of lessons learned:
- Make this in a non-stick bowl, if possible. It's caramel, and so really sticky.
- Have a plan for the caramel. Make it into a sauce, or toffee, or eat it with a spoon. But my original plan to pour the results into a bottle to keep in the fridge wouldn't have worked (it would get really thick, and stick to the bottle). Instead, I'll make a sauce (like this one, fromTracey's Culinary Adventures
), and then pour that
in a bottle. Unfortunately, I didn't find that link until after I burnt my first batch.
So the revised steps:
To the above ingredients, add 1/2 C heavy cream and 1 TBL butter, and maybe a pinch kosher salt. And the new instructions:
1. Mix everything except the cream, butter and salt.
2. Microwave 5-8 minutes // Cook until it's all liquid, and it's a tan color (it'll darken as it cools)
3. While that's cooking, heat the cream (it won't foam as much this way)
4. Let caramel cool on the counter for 5 minutes
5. Let the caramel cool/darken, until it's the right color. Then slowly add the warm cream, and then the butter. Mix well.
I may have blanked out and set the microwave for only 4:30, but after several minutes, it clearly wasn't dark enough, so I nuked it for 3 30-second bursts. And after that? It was pretty dark (and yeah, I was worried I'd ruined another batch), but I stuck to the plan.
I added the warm milk (SLOWLY!), and it foamed up. I wanted to get a picture, but figured it was more important to stir it and not let it overflow onto the counter.
Keep adding a little at a time and stirring. Eventually the milk and caramel will be the same temp and it won't foam. Then add the butter and stir until it's absorbed. let it cool (hey! I said let it cool.. you'll burn your tongue).
Second batch, coming out of the microwave
And then I started the clock, to see it darken over time..
.. except it didn't really get much darker. So back to the microwave. That definitely helped. And to avoid letting it darken too much while it cooled, I added the warm milk and then the butter.
Apparently, I didn't think to take a last picture. I would say it came out...pretty good.
It definitely wasn't as smooth as I might like, but now I've got the technique down, so I'll give it another shot.
*Check out this homemade beer ice cream
recipe from the feed.. definitely coming soon to a freezer near you.